Isla Angel de La Guardia


After a month away from the Bay of Los Angeles, we are back again for a final provisioning and the inevitable waiting for fresh fruit and vegetables.  Much to Mel’s distress there is no set delivery dates or times for the new supplies to hit the very meager selection normally available in the 3 stores.  Dry goods and tins are readily available, but as Mel has these well under control for several months, she spends considerable time sorting through some pretty rotten fresh stuff.


Basically we have now circumnavigated Isla Angel de Guardia, the largest and most northern of the islands in the Sea of Cortez at some 35 miles long.  Totally barren and uninhabited it has just a few really well protected anchorages, though even these are subject to the violent summer thunderstorms that can come from any direction, as we were to find out. Currents are strong, which I have still to work out depending on the tides – we only raised sail for a couple of hours, the rest motoring in tranquil conditions.


Some 10 miles to the north of Bahia Los Angeles, still on the mainland, is the delightful anchorage of Alcatraz South, tucked behind the small Isla Alcatraz.  A long white sandy beach, good protection from the SE and some excellent diving made it a fun stop for all.


Puerto Refugio on the northern end of Isla Angel De la Guardia has several bays, inlets and islands that provide numerous isolated anchorages.  The local ‘Rock Scallops’ made a wonderful change from the usual fish diet, as usual there were plenty of good sized grouper to keep the freezer full.  Along with our companions ‘Joss’ and ‘LoLo’ we spent a thoroughly enjoyable week.   Two days of torrential downpours and 40 knot winds made for an ‘interesting’ change to the normal hot tranquil cruising.  The normal dusty ochre and brown landscapes were instantly transformed into vivid shades of green – all sorts of bushes, grasses and shrubs coming alive, a truly amazing and enchanting change to the desert landscape.  We all took long walks savoring the fresh earthy smells and sights.


Ben and Huon had a ‘sleepover’ on Joss – both Mel and I strangely subdued without the boisterous activity of the boys – perhaps something we should try more often!


The East side of Isla Angel de La Guardia has just a couple of anchorages – we found our friends from last year on Eyoni  with Nancy, Ethan and Zada at Pulpito West, another excellent beach and anchorage.  Ethan, a very skilled free diver showed us how to collect the succulent ‘free swimming scallops’ – though we had to resort to scuba gear, unable to match his ability to look around at some 10 metres depth.


With just another week until the serious cyclone season finishes and Bens birthday just days away we are now planning our return cruise south early in October.  Ben and Huon’s  ‘Ben’ parents Ian and Lynne are joining us for 10 days in early November in the Loreto area –  a treat to be able to show dear friends a taste of the cruising life. Already there is a noticeable drop in temperatures, hard to believe that in just several weeks the nights will be decidedly cool and the water (so they say) too cold to swim in – we will see.


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